![]() The 1938 16' Chris-Craft "Painted Racer" build s 24" model in 1/8th scale. By the way a Mini-Review of this kit exists, check out Pat Tritle's thread on this forum, if you're new to boat building this is as good a place as any to get started. We also want to say that this is NOT an advertisement for Dumas in any way, there are many great models on the market today, but we did notice that the kit includes instructions and notes that are very obviously slanted towards the inexperienced builder. We know they're not going to look right on the water, but we really don't think my hands will fit inside the engine hatch of a 16" model! ![]() However, my dexterity is not what it used to be and so we've decided to build the cruisers at 1/12th and the runabouts at 1/8th. This Build Log will be of the Dumas kit, not a scratch build.įor many years now we've wanted to build a "fleet" of Chris-Crafts and we toyed with the idea of building them all at 1/12 scale. We decided to start with this one because it is so different to many of the "classic" Chris-Crafts. We were lucky enough to get some really good deals with some RC Groups Forum members and some very lucky bidding on eBay. With our recent move, and my age we felt that now was the time to either buy them or forget them. For a long time now we've wanted a few of the Dumas Chris-Craft models. Remember a little rocker bottom is ok, a concave bottom is a no-no.Well we're going to try our hand at a second Build Log. My advice to any one who is going to build the model is to add one or two spruce battens to the bottom notched into the frames to prevent the hollow spot and also to true the bottom for a planing hull. Since I will have to go back and rework the bottom anyhow, this is my chance to turn the boat into a one step hydro, like the 16' CHRIS-CRAFT HYDRO. That hollow spot is not even a 1/16" gap, but the suction it creates will be enough to never allow the model to climb up and plane off no mater how much power is available. I did not realize this untill the boat was finished and went for the shakedown run and guess what, the boat will not plane off. The problem is that when the planking was applied, a hollow was created between the frame spacing fore and aft between the keel and the chine. I sorry to say that I did check the bottom at the keel and the chine before planking with the plastic, no problem. I am glad to see that I'm not the only one who sees the problem in the bottom planking on the 19' racing runabout. Since I will have to go back and rework the bottom anyhow, this is my chance to turn the boat into a one step hydro, like the 16' CHRIS. What is normally done in this case? Should I just glue on the edge of the plank along the chine and the other to butterfly keel and fill in the gaps left between the bottom of the frame and plank or sand down the chine? I have noticed that when I rest a straight piece parallel with the bottom of the frame across the butterfly keel and chine (resting on the chine) it will leave a gap meaning that if I am to glue the plank down it would not completely stick to the frame (close to the chine) as the chime is higher. I am in the process of building the Dumas 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout (1249) and I have just finished gluing in the Chine and am about to embark on gluing down the two bottom expanded PVC planks.
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